First time at Malibu ever for me last night. It was crowded at 1st point, but I stood and watched the sexy sexayyyy longboarders do their thing. I took Coop to the hairier 2nd point to meet Dean and Steve. Head high set waves... and I always seemed to take the first one. I would turn to paddle out and see, on the horizon, a series of 5 more that I had to turtle and drown under. But still, I was happy to have a big and non-threatening (big waves, non-grumpy people) introduction to the spot. Grumpy people concern me more than big waves -- why is that? Maybe because nature is dispassionate in doling out its punishment. People, not so much.
This morning, I think I was a bit kamikaze at my break. I feel bad about that, but people kept paddling to where I was. See? People suck. I suck. I get grumpy and I get stupid. And I got the bigger, heavier board.
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I'm going to restate an earlier question...don't you get the heebie jeebies in the water IN THE DARK???????????
Oh, I didn't surf at NIGHT night. I was in the water at 7pm when there was still light out and then it got dark pretty quickly. My last wave was a nice big drop with not a lot of light. I was going to paddle back out, but a series of five head-high sets came rolling through and the combination of tired and dark made me ride the white water in. I was tempted, however, to go back out at first point when I walked by and saw black strips of perfectly peeling waves in the ambient light.
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