I hadn't surfed in over a week. Reports of lack-luster surf couldn't drag me out into the marine layer grey, but I went out on Sunday just to be social. I had the Okazaki-7' which I could have surfed. There was enough punch in the water, but Sensei J had his 9'7" Cooperfish Nose Devil (nose concave, wide, square tail, big honkin' fin) and I thought it might be fun to go back to a big heavy board. First wave I took and I thought I was just rusty after a month of not surfing a heavy board and because I couldn't turn the goddamn thing. It's amazing how different this 9'7" Nose Devil is to my 9'7" Hornet model. Second wave I took and I started to realize that this board is a little beyond my skill set on a beach break.
MAYBE I'd do better at a point break.
MAYBE I just suck.
I was also on Sensei J's borrowed J.J. Perrin (sp?) which I liked better because it's a similar shape to my 30-year-old weirdo board that I haven't ridden in a year. I caught waves just fine, but I don't rip like Sensei J...
Yet. I don't surf like Sensei J yet. Someday, I'll grow up to be just like Papa Bear.
Today, though, no. He loaned me his Cooperfish for the week since mine is still in the shop and Mark still has Doc. I didn't wake up early enough to hit a point break, so I was back at OP. Okay. So I can make one turn, but I don't really "get" the board. I don't know what to do after I make the turn, especially when faced with a crappy wave with no shoulder. Gah! Tomorrow, I'm going to be haunting a point break near you.
PS. Where are you, Sir Richard?
2 comments:
It's not you. These waves are so small and pointless that even the big boards can't do much out there. I haven't surfed in days. I'm now waiting for the much ballyhooed swell. Give it a few days and then take the Cooperfish out.
And yet, the first wave Sensei J got when we switched boards, he rode the Cooperfish all the way to shore. GAH!
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