Head high!
Two nice bombs of a right that stayed open on Sunday and Monday. LOVE it. I had a dentist appointment scheduled for Tuesday morning, but I've moved it in hopes of catching a few more.
I'm slightly worried that paddling into head high close-outs doesn't get my adrenaline going like it used to, because I'm afraid I might be tempted to chase adrenaline in the future. But I think I'm just being neurotic about worrying.
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Were you at our break?
Yup. Close-outs, but the shoulders that stayed open were VERY fun. And there were the tweeners that had better shape. Today's shape was not as good as yesterday's.
Sensei J broke a board yesterday. I came to the break late (my love life is getting in the way of surfing) and I walked to the beach to see Sensei J's board standing up in the sand in its usual spot, but it looked strange. The nose was cut off. He was out in the water on a shorter board, but the big board with the nose hanging on by the flop of a fiberglass should have been a cautionary tale to all the newbies out in the water yesterday.
Of course, it's not like he funked a wave. He said he pulled into an overhead barrel, MADE IT OUT, and THEN the lip of the wave came crashing down on the front of his board. He paddled back out only to see the front of his board flexing in a way it shouldn't have.
Me, I never make it out of barrels. I just grab the rail, tuck in, and hang on for dear life.
What board was it? His Cooperfish?
Make it out of barrels? I'm afraid of you, woman! I've never even been in one yet.
It was his T&C board which is a lot like my Doc -- a performance 9'0" with nothing but a thruster set-up.
He later took the broken board out: tore off the broken nose and hanging glass and surfed that on the tail and got some "sick barrels!" (his words)
I never SEE if I'm in a barrel, though. I panic and close my eyes. I just hear it echo around and I can feel it before I punch out the back of the wave.
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