I was back at OP this morning after so much Sunsetting lately. It was the usual: close-outs, but early on there was still some shape with a few sets of head-high walls thrown in just to keep you on your toes. I forgot what it's like to actually have to exercise wave selection judiciously.
The ZJ crew were taking autistic kids out into the water on soft-tops. The kids looked like they were having a great time.
I have to admit that I was having a great time on some of the nicer rights, but the most memorable wave today was a left that walled up just as I made the drop. I held onto the rail and tucked in. I couldn't keep my eyes open, but I felt the wave start to pick up the inside edge of my board as I got covered up by the lip. I held onto the rail with my right hand and kept my feet planted on the deck as I did a corkscrew inside the wave!
Wheee-whoooo!
I swear. One of these days, I'm going to knock myself out.
1 comment:
I pulled one of those the other day on my shortie. Both hands on the rail, flipped upside down and around, fully intact. It was funny. Prolly wouldn't have been so funny if it were anything bigger than the 3ft surf that it was. :-)
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