Okay, I haven't quite lost the stoke yet. I'm working 12-hour days and I still have time to wonder if and where I'm going to surf tomorrow during this much anticipated swell. I ran an errand around 3:30 today and the sky in Santa Monica was being overtaken by some ominous clouds signaling the arrival of some kind of energy.
If this swell actually does come in, I'm sort of limited by my psyching myself out for not surfing in so long, by my geography, and by my choice of board. Given that the only stick I have right now is a classic double volan 9'7" Cooperfish, I have to either go to a point break or have fun in some (supposedly) giant white-water at a beach break. If I go to a point break, I have to go in the darm in order to get any waves before the hordes. And if the last time I tried this on a bally-hooed swell is any indication, there will already be five people in the water and ten people on shore drinking coffee and checking out the waves.
Or I might just take the boy and his dog to dog beach and watch the show until the high tide drowns us.
Whatchoo gonna do?
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2 comments:
I didnt think you were going to lose your stoke, we all have to put it in storage from time to time...
So what did you do?
Myself I hate crowds.
I don't like crowds either, so I drove up for pre-dawn patrol at the "safe" point break in the area, but I don't like this break unless it's consistently breaking at 5 feet or over. And last week's swell hadn't shown up at 6am yet, so I left and went to the Venice Pier where I chatted with the old guys and watched shortboarders drop in and get smashed by the wall. It was a nice morning, but I didn't surf!
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