What a desperate people we surfers are to go out in conditions we had today. It's been so flat for so long and I was so tired of running that I was happy to see some size on the water... even if it was choppy wind-swell in 54-degree water with a good 13 mph cold wind. At least it was sunny.
The rides I got were pretty decent, but I was back on the ocean-liner (the 9'7" Cooperfish) and trying to paddle against the current to keep from ending up in Venice was making me sea-sick. I started hallucinating that my board was talking to me, "You fixed me and waited so long just so you could take me out in THIS?" I started to feel guilty.
On the plus side, though, I could really feel the flex on this board as I paddled through every single nausea-inducing ripple. I love how the board sounds and how the board gives -- kinda like really good shocks. It takes big smacks of water and dissipates it through the entire length of the board so that it kinda vibrates and hums pleasantly underneath you.
I'm talking about a surfboard. Don't let your mind go to the gutter place!
No comments:
Post a Comment