This weekend I was back to dawn patrol surf on Friday and Saturday. Not stellar surf, but Friday I was pretty stoked to have my first good day on the new board. After it wacked out my knee about six weeks ago, I was wondering if I was ever gonna be able to control it.
Saturday, I traded boards with Sensei J and of course he immediately took off on two great lefts one after the other. After a while, he paddled back to me and said, "Your board is cursed." Evidently, he was trying to make it around one last section close to shore when the wave came up and the board flipped him and he reinjured himself by throwing out his back. After taking out my knee and his back, obviously, I should rename Doc III to "Killer." I feel bad, but SurfSister said there's no reason for me to feel bad. She's right. Sensei J is one of the best surfers I know. It's his own fault he's getting old.
Sunday, I surfed second shift because I wanted to surf with a couple of my girlfriends. Gray skies. Cold water. Some awesome lefts. I like the social nature of second shift because there is a comraderie amongst surfers, but I have to admit I prefer dawn patrol. First light and still streets are a calming way to wake-up in a city.
No comments:
Post a Comment