I've been concentrating so much on nice waves and good rides, that I forgot that there are other things I like about surfing. One of those things happens to be doing stupid things and getting away with it. I surfed on Sunday because I told myself as long as the sun was shining in the morning, I'd be in the water. As I walked toward the water, the walled out set came through and I grew grumpy. But I noticed long lulls as I dawdled and paddled out between sets. Most of everything was closed out, but after my first left where I pulled the nose out as it slammed into the flats, I knew I was a-gonna have some fun. A few more crazy fast waves, a couple of attempted drops which resulted in somersaults with my board, and I was whooping like a mad-woman.
Best wave of the day was a frontside right that found me almost immediately in trim with a fast, but sweet shoulder. I saw the thing jacking up, so I thought it'd be safer down the face. Then I saw the backwash racing at me and I screeched as I bounced. What amazed me was I LANDED on my feet after the bounce!
Hi, I'm Grace, and I'm an adrenaline junkie.
You know you've been worked during a session when you find sand in your ears long after you've showered.